Guided diagnosis
AUX P2: guided diagnosis
Technician recommended
Narrow it down
Is the code still showing after the system has been switched off and on once?
Switch off at the wall or breaker only, wait ten minutes, then switch back on. Do not keep resetting it, and do not touch anything on the outdoor unit.
- Yes — it came straight back Code returns immediately after one restart
- It cleared, then returned after running a while Code clears then returns during running
- It has run normally since Normal operation since one restart
- It has not been switched off and on Restart not attempted
Is the fan in the outdoor unit turning when the system is asked to cool?
Watch and listen from a safe distance only. Never reach into the unit, put anything through the guard, or touch a fan blade.
- No — it does not turn at all Outdoor fan not turning
- It turns, but slowly or only sometimes Outdoor fan turning slowly or intermittently
- Yes — it turns normally Outdoor fan turning normally
- I could not see or hear it safely Outdoor fan operation not established
From a safe distance, how does the outdoor unit and the space around it look?
Look only. A coil face grey with dust, a unit boxed in by walls or stored items, or hot air blowing straight back into it are all worth recording.
- The coil looks heavily dust-blocked Outdoor coil appears heavily dust-loaded
- It is boxed in, or blowing hot air back on itself Outdoor unit airflow path obstructed or recirculating
- It looks clean and clear Outdoor coil and airflow path appear clear
- I cannot see the outdoor unit Outdoor unit could not be observed
Is air coming out of the indoor unit as strongly as usual?
Filters and the return-air path are the parts you can check safely. Do not open the unit beyond its filter cover.
- Much weaker than usual, or the filters are dirty Reduced indoor airflow or dirty filters observed
- No airflow at all No indoor airflow
- Airflow seems normal Indoor airflow appears normal
- I'm not sure Indoor airflow not established
What does the system do when it runs?
Whether it stops soon after starting, or runs for a long time before the code appears, points in different directions.
- It starts, then stops again within minutes Starts then stops within minutes
- It runs a long time, then stops when it is hottest Stops after prolonged running or in peak heat
- It will not start at all System does not start
- It runs, but cooling is weak Runs with reduced cooling
- I'm not sure Run pattern not established
Did this start after any work on the system?
Work on the refrigerant circuit, on the electrics, or a part replacement are all strong clues — and so is a service visit where refrigerant was added.
- After refrigerant work or a top-up Followed refrigerant work on the system
- After servicing or a coil clean Followed servicing or cleaning
- After electrical or wiring work Followed electrical or wiring work
- After a part was replaced Followed a part replacement
- No work at all — it appeared on its own No recent work reported
- I'm not sure Recent work history unknown
Where this points on your system
The indoor fan and air path, including filters and the air route through the unit.
About AUX P2
AUX reports that the high-pressure switch protection has operated: the switch on the high side of the refrigerant circuit opened, and the system stopped rather than continuing.
How to read this diagnosis
- Everything here is a possible cause and a likely area to inspect, based on your answers — it is not a confirmed diagnosis.
- One code may indicate more than one fault, so a technician would typically verify the suspected area by measurement before any part is replaced.
- Manufacturer documentation should be checked for model-specific values: we do not publish voltages, pressures or resistance figures we cannot source for your exact model.
What you can check, and what needs a technician
Safe to check yourself
- Confirm the exact code as it is displayed, and note which unit or controller is showing it.
- Note whether cooling stopped suddenly or has been getting gradually weaker — the two point in different directions.
- Watch and listen from a safe distance to establish whether the outdoor fan turns when the system is asked to cool. Never reach into the unit or through its guard.
- Check whether air is still coming from the indoor unit, and check the filters and return-air path where you can reach them safely.
- From a safe distance, note whether the outdoor coil looks heavily loaded with dust, whether the unit is boxed in, and whether it is blowing hot air back on itself.
- Note whether the system starts and then stops within minutes, or only stops after running in the hottest part of the day.
- Note any visible ice or frost on the indoor coil or pipework, and photograph it before it melts.
- Note whether the problem began after servicing, refrigerant work, electrical work or a part replacement — including any visit where refrigerant was added.
- Where several indoor units are served by one outdoor unit, note how many of them are affected.
- Switch the system off at the wall or breaker once, wait ten minutes, switch it back on, and note whether the code returns immediately, returns while running, or stays away.
- Record the indoor and outdoor model numbers before contacting anyone: pressure limits are model-specific and a technician needs them.
Do not
- Do not connect gauges or a manifold set to the system, and do not attempt to read refrigerant pressures — the circuit is pressurised and this is not homeowner work.
- Do not add, top up, recover, release or bleed refrigerant, and do not let anyone add refrigerant before the cause has been diagnosed.
- Do not open, close or adjust any service valve, and never use a piercing valve on the pipework.
- Do not attempt leak testing, brazing, or any work that opens the sealed refrigerant circuit.
- Do not bypass, jumper or short a pressure switch or pressure sensor to make the system run — that removes the protection this code exists to provide.
- Do not measure or probe anything on the control board or at the compressor terminals.
- Do not touch the pipework or the discharge line while the system has been running: it can be hot enough to burn.
- Do not keep resetting the system to clear the code — repeatedly restarting a system that is tripping a pressure protection puts avoidable load on the compressor.
Technician verification sequence
For the attending technician — these steps involve live equipment or sealed systems and are not homeowner checks.
- Confirm the exact model and the manufacturer's own meaning for the displayed code, including whether it describes a pressure, a protection operation or a sensing circuit.
- Establish which of those three the code actually reports before anything is connected to the system — the three have different diagnostic paths.
- Verify indoor and outdoor airflow and heat-exchanger condition, including filters, coil cleanliness and the airflow path around the outdoor unit.
- Verify fan operation on the affected side, including the drive and its control where the fan is electronically driven.
- Inspect the pressure switch or sensor, its harness, its connector and the controller input that reads it, separating a circuit fault from a real pressure condition.
- Evaluate refrigerant circuit condition using the manufacturer-approved diagnostic procedure for that model, rather than against generic figures.
- Check the expansion device and its control where the code or the circuit behaviour implicates refrigerant flow control.
- Assess compressor and overall system operation where the readings point beyond airflow, sensing and flow control.
- On water-cooled and packaged equipment, confirm condenser water flow and temperature before the refrigerant side is suspected, and involve whoever operates that plant.
- Confirm the root cause before adding refrigerant or replacing any part, and where a charge is found low, establish why it is low rather than simply restoring it.
About resetting
Switching the system off at the wall or breaker, waiting ten minutes and switching it back on is reasonable once, and what happens next is useful: a code that returns immediately is live, while one that returns only after the system has been running tends to track a condition that builds up while it works.
When not to reset: Do not keep resetting it. A pressure protection that trips repeatedly is protecting the compressor, and forcing the system to run through it is how a diagnosable fault becomes an expensive one. Repeated resets also destroy the history a technician would use.
What this code can point to
- Condenser airflow or heat-rejection restriction Most likely
- A coil face loaded with dust, a blocked or recirculating airflow path, or an obstruction close to the outdoor unit all stop heat leaving the system. It is a likely area to inspect first on a high-side code because it is visible and correctable.
- Outdoor fan not operating as it should Possible
- Without the condenser fan moving air, the high side rises quickly. The fan, its capacitor, its wiring and the board output that drives it are all part of this possibility — which is why whether the fan turns is asked early.
- Protection operating correctly on a real condition Possible
- The device may have done exactly its job. Here the code is accurate and what needs finding is the condition behind it, rather than the protection being treated as the fault.
- Pressure sensor, switch or its circuit Possible
- A switch that has failed, stuck or lost its wiring reports a trip that never happened. Because the display cannot separate that from a real trip, the switch and its circuit are inspected alongside the condition itself.
- Indoor airflow or evaporator condition Less common
- Blocked filters, a dirty indoor coil, closed or restricted air paths and a failing indoor fan reduce the heat reaching the refrigerant, which shows on the low side. This is a possible cause that is regularly mistaken for a shortage of refrigerant.
- Operating conditions and heat load Less common
- Very high outdoor temperature, a rooftop or enclosed installation, long running hours and an unusually high indoor load all shift where the system operates. That is a genuine operating condition rather than a broken part.
- Refrigerant charge condition Less common
- The charge may be part of it — but it is established by manufacturer-approved diagnosis, not assumed from a code or from weak cooling. Refrigerant is not consumed in normal use, so a charge found low points at a reason that also needs finding rather than at a routine top-up.
- Restriction or flow abnormality in the circuit Less common
- A partial restriction in the pipework, a drier or a strainer changes both sides of the circuit at once and can look very like a charge problem. It is separated by procedure, not by adding refrigerant to see what happens.
- Expansion device or refrigerant flow control Less common
- An expansion valve, an electronic expansion valve or the control signal driving it decides how much refrigerant flows into the evaporator. A valve that does not move, and a controller that never asked it to, produce the same symptoms.
- Compressor or system operating condition Less common
- How the compressor is running affects both pressures, so the system's operation is assessed as a whole. A technician would typically verify this rather than infer it from a pressure code.
- Water-cooled condenser or building water condition Less common
- On water-cooled and packaged equipment, heat leaves through condenser water rather than air, so the water side — its flow and its temperature — becomes part of a high-side code. In a building, that plant is not the occupant's to touch.
- Controller input or control circuit Less common
- The board that reads the pressure signal, and the outputs it drives, can misread a healthy circuit. A technician would typically verify this last, once sensing and the mechanical side have been established.
- Model-specific condition needing further diagnosis Less common
- Pressure codes carry model-specific limits, protection sequences and lockout behaviour. Where that applies, the documentation for the exact model decides what the code means and what values are correct for it.
Which pressure condition this code refers to
High-pressure switch / protection operation. At the high-pressure switch or protection device on the discharge side, and in the circuit that reports its state to the controller.
This code reports that a protection device operated. Two very different things produce it: a genuinely high pressure the device correctly interrupted, and a switch or its wiring reporting a trip that did not happen. Separating them is a technician check, and the switch must never be bypassed to keep the system running.
Common questions
What does AUX P2 mean?
P2 on a AUX system is a refrigerant-side or pressure-related report: it points at High-pressure switch / protection operation. AUX reports that the high-pressure switch protection has operated: the switch on the high side of the refrigerant circuit opened, and the system stopped rather than continuing. At the high-pressure switch or protection device on the discharge side, and in the circuit that reports its state to the controller. The system measured a condition outside what it accepts — or a protection device operated — and stopped rather than continuing. The code names the area, not the component that failed.
Does AUX P2 mean the AC needs gas?
No — that does not follow from the code. A pressure-related error can be produced by condenser airflow, the outdoor fan, indoor airflow, a restriction in the circuit, the expansion device, the operating load, a pressure sensor or switch circuit, the controller input and, on water-cooled equipment, the building's condenser water. A charge condition is one possibility among those and is established by manufacturer-approved diagnosis. Refrigerant is not consumed like fuel: if a charge is genuinely low, the reason it is low is what needs finding.
Is AUX P2 a pressure problem or a pressure-sensor problem?
Those are two different diagnoses and the difference matters. High-pressure switch / protection operation is what P2 names, and the first thing a technician establishes is whether the code reports an actual pressure, a protection device operating, or a fault in the circuit that measures it — because a healthy circuit can be reported as abnormal by a failed sensor, harness or controller input.
Can a dirty condenser cause AUX P2?
On a high-side code it is a likely area to inspect. A coil face loaded with dust, a unit boxed in, or hot air recirculating back into it all stop heat leaving the system, and in high outdoor temperatures that shows up quickly. This is a possible cause you can observe safely from a distance, and it costs nothing to record.
Can the outdoor fan cause AUX P2?
Yes. If the condenser fan is not turning as it should, heat cannot leave the system, and the high side rises. The fan itself, its capacitor, its wiring and the board output that drives it are all part of that possibility — which is why whether the fan turns is one of the first things worth observing, always from a safe distance.
Can wiring or a sensor fault cause AUX P2?
It can. A pressure sensor or switch reports through its harness and connector to a controller input, and a fault anywhere on that path may indicate an abnormal pressure that is not actually there. A technician would typically verify that circuit before anything is connected to the refrigerant side.
Can I reset AUX P2?
Switching off at the wall or breaker, waiting ten minutes and switching back on is reasonable once, and how quickly the code returns is itself useful. Repeated resetting is not: a pressure protection that trips again is protecting the compressor, and forcing the system through it turns a diagnosable fault into a larger repair.
Can I keep using the AC with AUX P2?
It is better left off until it is diagnosed. The system will usually stop or restrict itself anyway, and where it does keep running it is operating outside the limits the protection exists to hold — which is exactly the condition that damages compressors.
What can I safely check myself?
Observations only: whether cooling stopped suddenly or gradually, whether the outdoor fan turns, whether indoor airflow is normal and the filters are clean, whether the outdoor coil looks dust-blocked or boxed in, whether there is visible ice, whether the system stops shortly after starting or only in peak heat, and whether any work was done recently. Never connect gauges, open a valve, or let anyone add refrigerant before the cause is known.
What will a technician test for AUX P2?
In order: the code against the documentation for your exact model, whether it reports a pressure, a protection operation or a sensing circuit, indoor and outdoor airflow and heat-exchanger condition, fan operation, the pressure switch or sensor circuit, refrigerant circuit condition by manufacturer-approved procedure, the expansion device where flow control is implicated, and compressor and system operation. We do not publish pressure, superheat or charge-weight figures, because they depend on your refrigerant type, model and conditions.
Does refrigerant need to be added for AUX P2?
Not as a starting point, and not before diagnosis. Adding refrigerant to a system whose real problem is airflow, a fan, a restriction, a flow-control fault or a sensing circuit hides the fault and can leave the system worse off. Where diagnosis does show a charge condition, the reason for it is addressed as part of the repair rather than the charge simply being restored again.
Could a restriction in the system cause AUX P2?
It can, and it is one of the possibilities that most resembles a charge problem: a partial restriction in the pipework, a drier or a strainer affects both sides of the circuit at once. It is separated by manufacturer-approved diagnostic procedure — never by adding refrigerant to see whether things improve.
Does AUX P2 mean the system is low on refrigerant?
Not on the evidence of the code alone. P2 tells you which area AUX is objecting to — High-pressure switch / protection operation — and several conditions produce that: heat rejection and condenser airflow, the outdoor fan, indoor airflow, a restriction, refrigerant flow control, the operating load, and the circuit that measures pressure. A charge condition is one possibility, confirmed by manufacturer-approved diagnosis rather than assumed, and where a charge is genuinely low the reason for it is what needs finding.
Did this help you find the fault?
Thank you — recorded. This helps us improve the guidance, and is never published.
Need this looked at properly?
Call or send a photo on WhatsApp and we will tell you whether it needs an inspection, and what the work involves, before anyone travels.
Sources consulted
- Official AUX Global error-code pages (English and Thai regional mirrors — mutually consistent except E3/E4)
- Official AUX 2021 troubleshooting guide and error-code PDF (incl. the Electrolux OEM cross-reference table)
- Strong secondary AUX compilation (wired-controller dual-display convention)